The Hunt for Bujuk @ Batang Berjuntai – Tanjung Karang Peat Swamp Forest

Sunday May 9, 2010 - When we think of the peat swamp, the first thing that came to mind is, a waterlogged mushy place infested with mosquitos, snakes  and creepy crawlies. We think less of the benefits it brings to the environment.

According to United Nations Development Programme (UNDP), “Peat swamp forests are an important component of the world’s wetlands – the dynamic link between land and water, a transition zone where the flow of water, the cycling of nutrients and the energy of the sun combine to produce a unique ecosystem of hydrology, soils and vegetation. Peat swamp forests provide a variety of benefits in the form of forestry and fisheries products, energy, flood mitigation, water supply and groundwater recharge.” 

So, when an sms came inviting me to explore the peat swamp forest of Batang Berjuntai – Tanjung Karang, I hesitated for a moment. Snakes, mosquitos and leeches? Not a place that I’d like to spend my Sunday at. But, the lure of exploring Nature at its best and landing the elusive Bujuk (channa lucius, a member of the snakehead family) was… simply overwhelming. 

Peat swamp and Bujuk? How could I let this opportunity passed me by?

We rendezvoused for breakfast at Ijok as planned. After a hearty breakfast (bak kut teh…), we headed west towards Tanjung Karang. We went off-road some 20 minutes later into an oil-palm plantation. Surprisingly, the laterite road in the plantation was well maintained. We soon came to an irrigation canal. The other side of the canal stood the ubiquitous peat swamp forest. From a distant, a peat swamp forest looks like any tropical rainforest for the untrained eyes.

Parking at the fringe of the peat swamp forest

We drove pass the canal before stopping at the fringe (of the forest). But, the river was nowhere in sight. I went over to Tee and asked where the river was. “Just a few meters away behind the bushes!”, Tee said. “Wow! How clever Nature hides and protects itself from the predatory Man.”, I thought.

Overhead, the sky looked gloomy. It had rained the past few days and I was certain it was going to rain again. The dark clouds did not deter us a tiny bit. We pushed ahead and started unloading. Instead of carrying our kayaks, we decided to drag them over the tall weeds to the water. The thought of snakes and leeches hidden in the weeds was enough to give me the uneasy feeling. As we walked, the ground got softer and wetter. I learned later that leeches could not survive the acidic water of peat swamp forest.

The hidden water...can't be seen even if are a few meters away.

Nature's tea...

As soon as we hit the water, I noticed right away the water was tea-like in colour. As we paddled further, I realised the peat swamp was shady and cool, unlike the ex-mining lakes or dams we were used to. In certain parts, the foliage was so thick it almost covered the sky.

There were many small rises but the bujuks were not biting. Tee reasoned that the rise in the water level (due to the rain in the past few days) has flooded the surrounding areas and the bujuks would have moved out to the flooded areas in search of food. After many more attempts, we decided to bring out our light tackle and target the small rises. Soon enough we started landing one after another these tiny beautiful fishes. I brought home a few for the aquarium.

Looks like patung...and nice enough for the aquarium.

As expected, it started to drizzle, but not for long. The thick foliage of the forest actually provided us some cover from the rain.    

Tee, our leader and guide, had told us if we were lucky we might spot wild boars, tapirs and even panthers. We spotted wild boar and tapir mud pools and footprints along the sides, but no wild boar, tapir or panther. I believed we made so much noise the animals would have noticed our arrival…including the bujuks and snakes.

The thick foliage provides cover from rain and sun.

A wild boar mud pool

Our paddling journey was occasonally interrupted by fallen branches. If the fallen branches were small, we would just chopped them with our parangs. But, if the branches were large, Tee, an experienced tracker, would clear the side so that we could walk “around” the fallen branches. Alternatively, we could go “over” the fallen branches…only if we had lesser load with us. 

Tee clearing the side so we could walk 'around' the fallen branches.

This is a journey few would take. But, the peat swamp forest is Nature at its best and the bujuk would have been a great ‘bonus’.

Our mixed group of 7 comprised of experienced trackers, anglers, kayakers, canoeists, hunters and 4×4 enthusiasts. Tee (our group leader), Ng, Lim, Jeremy, Steven, Johnny and myself with 3 4X4s, 4 kayaks and 1 canoe. 

Gerald K.